Uzbekistan Samarkand 2002.09.08 - 09.11


A trip to Uzbekistan without a stop in Samarkand to see the Registan is like going to India and missing the Taj Mahal or going to Jordan without seeing Petra. When we saw the Registan, we were happy for the first time about our decision to come to Uzbekistan.

In its heyday, Registan was the commercial center of Samarkand. Today souvenir vendors occupy the small ground floor rooms and are surprisingly civil to tourists. A stroll through the complex of 3 buildings is peaceful without a bombardment of sales pitches. Much of the interior is similar in structure and decor to the other monuments in Uzbekistan but the interior of Tilla Kari is unique. Golden walls and ceiling are like a 3-dimensional puzzle in fine detail. Photos only do partial justice. The Registan is a place to see with your own eyes.

Regular buses travel to Samarkand from Bukhara and Tashkent in about 6 hours. A taxi normally costs US$20 per car for the 300 km distance from Bukhara or Tashkent and takes 3 hours.

The Registan is the highlight of Samarkand. Below are photos of the Registan complex and the golden interior of Tilla Kari dome in the back left.

The dome and minaret of Guri Amir Mausoleum is visible from the courtyard of Dilshoda B&B.
Shahr I Zindah in the far northeastern corner of Samarkand is a complex of buildings connected by an inner corridor. Often the back entrance is open and can be entered through the cemetery free of charge.
Dilshoda B&B prepared the best food in Uzbekistan for Us 3000 per person. We dine with 3 Japanese travelers: Kenji, Fumie, and Chisato. Kenji has been motorcycling around the world for the past 7 years with sporadic work at Japanese restaurants. His stories are unique and interesting. 5 months ago, his girlfriend Fumie bought a bike and joined him. Their current itinerary runs from Germany to India via the Balkans, Middle East, and Central Asia.

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